A Guide to Buying and Using a Computer
To put it simply, buying a computer is a function of what you need it for and how much are you paying for it.
The first choice of most consumers for a new computer is a laptop. Although they more expensive, less repairable, less upgradable, less ergonomic and less performant per unit of currency than desktops, they are portable and consumes less space. But this portability is useful and sensible only if you have to work on the go, work from different places (like home, office, cafes, etc.) or even literally work while travelling. If you are an employee who works so, your company would have already provided you a laptop, perhaps an ultra-portable one. Unless you are a freelancer and actually require such portability, there is no need to buy a new laptop.
The possibility of using laptops to work from your sitting room, sofa, dining table, the balcony, or even from the bathroom is certainly appealing on first look. But this sort of portability does you more harm than good. Both our anatomy and psychology are not designed to use computers in such manners or for an extended period of time. You must finish your computer work on an ergonomic set up, without multi tasking and taking breaks often.
Now, whether in desktops or laptops, new generation of processors come with minor performance improvements which does not significantly matter in real world general use cases. Therefore, unless your work really demands that minor improvement, there are less reasons to buy a new computer.
So then, what must one buy? Recent refurbished computers with some upgrades and an ergonomic setup will suffice general uses such as entertainment, basic office work, web browsing and streaming.
Refurbished desktops are hardly available while refurbished laptops, especially refurbished business laptops, are widely available, cheap, powerfully configured, well optimised for work demands, and sturdily built. So though a few years old, their performances either surpasses today's consumer computing devices or is at par with them.
Their trade off, however, is older display technology (colour accuracy and brightness). But honestly, this is not noticeable unless you put a modern display beside and compare. Also, since a desktop set up is recommended for ergonomic reasons (discussed next), this trade off is not of much importance.
An ergonomic set up is one that goes with your body structure (anatomy) and its natural movements (kinesis). Creating an ergonomic computer usage set up is simple:
- the top bezel of the monitor should be at eye level.
- keyboard must be at elbow level so that your elbows bend 90 degrees while typing.
- your forearms should rest on the desk while typing; don't let them dangle off your shoulder.
- your wrists and palms should be shoulder width apart while typing to inhibit ulnar deviation.
- your wrists and palms must be almost perpendicular to the table (not facing down), thus reducing the chances of carpal tunnel syndrome.
- your palms must preserve its concave shape while typing and using mouse.
- the position of the neck should be natural: ie, monitor must be in front of you, not beside you.
- their shouldn't be too much movement of your eyes or neck while using the monitor.
- your back should be straight whether the chair has a back rest or not and whether you are standing or sitting.
- your body must not experience the heat of the device to prevent roasted skin syndrome.
Buying a simple desk, with no keyboards trays or cabinets (usually called study desk or work desk). This will actually cost you less than a so called computer table. A standing desk, on the other hand may be more expensive, which I suggest only if you spend your entire day working on a computer.
Buy a chair with flat seat. A concave seat is best suited to lean back and relax; not to sit with your back straight and your body leaning towards the desk for work.
If cannot afford a monitor, raise your laptop using a laptop stand or a set of books to a height that aligns the top bezel with your eyes. Then use an ergonomic keyboard and mouse. If can afford a monitor, buy one. Start with what you want to use it for, which will tell you what resolution (and aspect ratio) you must buy, which will help you determine an optimum screen size using its PPI, which can then be placed at an optimum viewing distance.
As a side note, PPI or pixels per inch, is the measure of number of pixels per square inch. In simpler words, PPI is a measure of legibility. The higher PPI, the smaller the fonts and icons will appear. This is why the fonts and icons appear smaller in a 15 inch 1080p screen compared to a 24 inch 1080p screen. Ideally, the higher PPI, the crispier the fonts and images. But there is a point beyond which higher PPI turns illegible too (say a 1080p in a 12 inch screen). It is best to judge the highest PPI that is still legible to your eyes by experimenting. I believe that 90-100 PPI is a sweet spot between legibility and high PPI to most eyes.
On monitor resolution, 768p resolution is still in use, but makes sense only on smaller screens like 12", 13" or 14". You don't get monitors of that size nor can you be much productive with a 768p resolution. So, 1080p it is that I suggest, on a 22 or 24 inch monitor. There are 19 inch 1080p monitors that gives you higher PPI and yet legible, but they are not widely available and may be too small for entertainment.
Viewing distance should be such that what's on the screen is legible, eye movements are limited and neck movements are zero. In other words, it must not be placed too far that the screen is illegible, nor must it be placed so close that your eyes and/or neck travel a lot to see the sides and corners of the monitor.
Ultra wide monitors fail this criteria. They are so wide that you need to move your neck often, which is why they don't suit general use. Ultra wide monitors are primarily designed for gamers, video content creators and those with specific applications. The convenience of the ultra wide real estate outweighs the inconvenience of moving around your neck and eyes in such applications.
As for keyboards, use an external one to protect your wrists and palms from roasted skin syndrome; ergonomic ones that are split, so that the user can type at shoulder width; concave, because our wrists have a natural tendency to bend inwards and our fingers are of unequal lengths; has good wrist support for comfort; and ortholinear because when typed at shoulder wide (a staggered keyboard has keys misaligned with our finger tips). The Kinesis Advantage 2, Kinesis Advantage360 and Dactyl Manuform keyboard are my favourite but are ludicrously price.
Speaking of keyboard layouts, I recommend learning Dvorak or Colemak layouts. They are designed for strain-free typing reducing the need to move fingers across the keyboard. Their keys are arranged such that you can type most words from the home row. Indeed, QWERTY is muscle memory now, but there were days when you typed efficiently on a 3x4 Nokia keyboard and a Qwerty keyboard; we are capable of storing at least two keyboard layouts in muscle memory.
Use vertical mouse to prevent carpal tunnel syndrome, to protect your hands from roast skin syndrome and for the comfort of the forearm.